Be warned – I do complain quite a bit in this post!
We made 2 attempts to reach Belsay Hall which is about an hour and a half away in Northumberland straight down the A696. We’ve been there before – we know where it is and how to get there. There’s a lovely walk from Belsay Hall itself, through the gardens and along a ravine cut away in the rock which is lined with rhododendrons and other exotic specimens collected by previous owners.
About two thirds of the way there we started noticing ‘road ahead closed’ signs – worrying, but not disastrous – after all we were nearly there, it didn’t say how far ahead the road was closed and the diversion signs seemed to be in completely the wrong direction. Lesson 1 – Never ignore a road ahead closed sign! Suddenly – there it was – a barricade across the road!! We pulled off into a side road and came to a village where we stopped and asked directions from a group of walkers. It has to be said the village green was busy with people all sitting in their cars studying their maps and reconfiguring their satnavs. The next 2 hours was spent criss-crossing the moors, requesting directions in random shops, passing the same group of bikers several times – obviously also lost – and not getting where we wanted to go. Our satnav meanwhile was having a crisis – if I never hear that phrase – “make a U-turn if possible” – again it’ll be too soon. Nearly 3 hours into a drive around Northumberland, thirsty, irritable and desperate for a public convenience – we turn around and head home.
A week later we try again, different route, supposed to take only a few minutes longer. We do well, until we reach a town which is supposed to be not far from Belsay – and there it is again – “make a U-turn if possible”. We spend the next hour making U-turns and studying our newly purchased paper map before finally reaching Belsay with a huge sigh of relief.
In the spirit of complaining – I’m just going to mention that, along with a new play area and cafe, Belsay have introduced pay and display parking! £4! In cash! Who carries cash anymore? Well luckily Mr RR does – so – fees paid, fortified by tea and coffee (in paper cups – I hate paper cups!) we head for the Hall, spotting a pair of swallows building their nest on the way. It always makes me feel better when I see how hard birds work to build a place to lay their eggs in a certain place, when all we did was sit in the car and turn up (more or less).
Belsay Hall is a Greek Revival Mansion built of sandstone blocks quarried from the estate, and is exactly 30 metres square. Sir Charles Monck began building it in 1807 having spent his 2 year honeymoon (!) in Greece. He was passionate about the design and architecture of bulidings and the local flora in Greece keeping detailed travel diaries. Later he travelled to Sicily and was inspired by what he saw there to plant the quarry garden at Belsay. The Hall has recently been restored by English Heritage.
We had a look around the hall, which is empty of furniture and has unplastered walls and high pillars in the entrance hall so that it’s a bit like walking into an ancient temple. The Library which is now bookless has a frieze in a Greek Revival Key pattern
The formal gardens are lovely and well-kept…….
but it’s the quarry garden that steals the show….
We emerge from the quarry path into the sunshine for a view of the medieval castle:
The Middleton family lived at Belsay continuously since the 13th century, although the estate was forfeited in in 1317 when Sir Richard de Middleton’s grandson John was executed for treason – disastrous for Sir Richard as he was Lord Chancellor to Henry III at the time! Luckily for them the estate was returned to the Middleton’s when one of his descendants managed to marry into the resident family.
Alongside the castle is the newly constructed “Wild Man” play area – named after a figure painted on the inside east wall of the tower. “Wild Man” is a medieval mythical figure present on the Middleton coat of arms. It’s one of several fragments of early paintings still visible including heraldic shields and a naval scene reflecting Sir John Middleton VII’s role as commander of fleets against the French in the 1480s.
Also nearby is the newly converted coach house and stables which is now a cafe beautifully done out with wooden beams and upholstered wooden seating. It all looks lovely. Sadly, the experience of having lunch in this lovely building was not so lovely. Lunch was delivered to our table in a cardboard box with a sellophane lid, drinks were in paper cups, and we hacked at our jacket potatoes with flimsy wooden disposable cutlery, whilst reading information on photo boards telling us how proud English Heritage is of its ethical and sustainable practices. I’m not sure whether we just visited on the day the dishwasher broke down or if this was normal – whichever it was, it sort of spoiled the experience for us.
Going back to the Middleton’s for a minute – Sir William Middleton II died in 1757 leaving the estate in debt and everything had to be sold off – but the fortunate Middleton’s again managed to marry into the right family – Sir William’s nephew (also William) wed Jane Monck, a very wealthy heiress. It was William and Jane’s son Charles (who changed his name to Monck so that he could inherit some land in Lincolnshire) who was the passionate Classicist and had the greatest impact on Belsay.
As well as the formal and quarry gardens, Charles planted exotic conifers, Scots Pine and other hardwood species to form Crag Wood to the south of the house and its here we venture next, passing the manmade lake:
and heading uphill through the woods. As we pass the back of the hall we have a good view of the rhododendron and what are apparently ‘deer shelters’:
I did puzzle over the provision of shelters for deer – but I’m wondering now if these are shelters for people to hide in whilst they try to spot the deer – so they can shoot them of course! What do you think?
We were quite enjoying the ramble through the woods with it’s view of the lake until a flying insect launched itself at me and stung me in the eye! Oh my word, that hurt! No first aid kit of course although a plaster wouldn’t have been much help! Luckily after a sit down on a nearby bench and a few deep breaths we headed back to the Hall where we were hoping there would be some sort of first aid if it was needed. By the time we got back it was feeling better, but I’d had enough by then – time to find our way home.
Here’s my favourite flower of the day – Calycanthus chinensis – a stunning tree covered in these beauties:
ricketyrambler 